
{"id":5,"date":"2016-02-19T05:54:54","date_gmt":"2016-02-19T05:54:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.speedcarwash.com\/blog\/?p=5"},"modified":"2018-03-13T09:22:08","modified_gmt":"2018-03-13T09:22:08","slug":"8-checklist-for-your-car-care","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.speedcarwash.com\/blog\/8-checklist-for-your-car-care\/","title":{"rendered":"8 Car Car Checklist For your Adorable Car"},"content":{"rendered":"<h2 style=\"text-align: justify;\">Air Filter<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">You need a new air filter for your car every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first. You can pay a mechanic and give up your car for a day, or you can replace your air filter at home in about ten minutes.<\/p>\n<ol style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<li>First, find your filter under the hood of your car. It\u2019s in a black rectangular box with metal clips on the side. Check your owner\u2019s manual if you don\u2019t see it as soon as you pop the hood.<\/li>\n<li>Open up the casing, and check out how the air filter fits inside it. Make a note of which way the filter faces.<\/li>\n<li>Remove the old air filter, and insert the new one exactly how the old one sat.<\/li>\n<li>Remember to close the metal clips when you\u2019re done.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">That\u2019s it. For extra savings in the long run, you can extend the life of your new air filter by hitting it with some compressed air to clear out any debris.<\/p>\n<h2 style=\"text-align: justify;\">Windshield Wipers<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">I laugh when I visit my local auto parts store and see that they\u2019re having a sale on wiper blades, offering free installation. The free installation only applies if I buy the most expensive blades in the store, so I started changing them on my own.\u00a0You\u2019ll need new wiper blades after about six months or a year of use. You probably tend to go a little longer before asking your mechanic to change them, but you shouldn\u2019t deal with the danger of streaking while you put off an inconvenient trip to the auto shop.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Wiper blade setup differs quite a bit from car to car, so you may have to follow a few different steps according to your owner\u2019s manual. Basically, the process is similar to changing your air filter:<\/p>\n<ol style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<li>Lift the blades, as if you were washing your windshield by hand, and remove the old blades.<\/li>\n<li>Pay attention to how the old blades connect to the metal arms.<\/li>\n<li>On most models, you\u2019ll see a tab on the underside of the wiper. Push the tab to remove the old blade.<\/li>\n<li>Attach the new blades, being careful not to bend the wiper arms or scratch your windshield. Line everything up and make sure the new ones are secure and tight.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">If you get distracted or just can\u2019t remember exactly how the new blades should fit on the wiper arm, don\u2019t worry. The packaging for the new blades should have a general set of instructions and a helpful diagram.<\/p>\n<h2 style=\"text-align: justify;\">Spark Plugs<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Most spark plugs need replacing after about 30,000 miles, but check your owner\u2019s manual to see if your vehicle is any different. While changing spark plugs might sound like intense work, it\u2019s a pretty simple process. You just need to set aside some time and exercise patience. Don\u2019t rush, because you need to install the replacements in a specific order.<\/p>\n<ol style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<li>You should be able to locate your spark plugs fairly easily, because they\u2019re attached to thick rubbery wires.<\/li>\n<li>You\u2019ll find either four, six, or eight plugs, depending on how many cylinders your car has.<\/li>\n<li>Remove the wire to the first spark plug only. <strong>Do not remove all of the wires at once<\/strong>. Your spark plugs are installed in a certain order, which you need to maintain.<\/li>\n<li>Use your spark plug socket and extension on your ratchet to remove the first spark plug.<\/li>\n<li>Install the new spark plug, screwing it in by hand at first and then tightening it with a wrench for a snug fit. <strong>Do not over-tighten<\/strong>.<\/li>\n<li>Re-attach the spark plug wire.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Repeat these steps for each spark plug, one at a time. If you buy the right plugs, you won\u2019t have to worry about \u201cgapping\u201d the plugs, because they\u2019ll come pre-gapped.<\/p>\n<h2 style=\"text-align: justify;\">Oil and Oil Filter<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Experts say you should change your oil every 3,000 miles, but with better products and cars operating more efficiently, I think you can get away with changing it every 5,000 miles. Whichever benchmark you decide to use, you can save time and money by handling the change yourself.\u00a0Before you start, keep in mind these precautions:<\/p>\n<ol style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<li>Never change your oil when your engine is hot. Park, wait for it to cool, and then get started. Driving around the block to heat the car and loosen the oil can result in a more effective drain, which is good news, but you <em>must<\/em> let the engine cool before going to work.<\/li>\n<li>You\u2019ll have to jack up your car, so make sure you\u2019re comfortable safely handling a jack.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Now that you\u2019ve covered safety first, it\u2019s time to get a little dirty.<\/p>\n<ol style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<li>Get under your car and locate the vehicle\u2019s oil pan. It shouldn\u2019t be hard to find.<\/li>\n<li>Unscrew the drain plug and drain all of the old oil into your oil pan.<\/li>\n<li>Once all of the oil is drained, replace the drain plug.<\/li>\n<li>Go back to your engine and remove the old oil filter with your oil filter wrench. (Be careful, because the oil filter contains some old oil as well).<\/li>\n<li>Lubricate the rubber gasket on the new oil filter with some new motor oil.<\/li>\n<li>Fill the new oil filter about two-thirds of the way with new oil.<\/li>\n<li>Screw in the new oil filter. Hand-tighten it only.<\/li>\n<li>Fill the engine with new oil, using your funnel.<\/li>\n<li>With a dip-stick, double check your oil level to be sure you\u2019ve added enough.<\/li>\n<li>Discard the old oil filter and recycle the old oil (most gas stations will take it).<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Changing your oil is the dirtiest job on the list, but it might be the most rewarding too. Though you can find plenty of quick-service stations nearby, when you think about going possibly four times a year, the expense and time commitment adds up.<\/p>\n<h2 style=\"text-align: justify;\">Battery Maintenance<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">The key to keeping your car running smoothly and efficiently is a good battery connection. Just a few specks of crunchy white residue on the posts can keep your car from starting. A simple visual check of the condition of your battery will tell you when you need to perform this process.<\/p>\n<ol style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<li>Remove your battery terminals, which should be a fairly straightforward process. Make sure you always remove the negative cable first. If they\u2019re stuck, use a flathead screwdriver to pry them loose.<\/li>\n<li>Clean the posts. Some say <a href=\"http:\/\/www.moneycrashers.com\/uses-for-coca-cola-coke\/\">Coca-Cola<\/a> will work, and it does, but I suggest using a more professional product from your local auto parts store. Keep in mind that most of these solutions are nothing more than baking soda and water, so if you\u2019re feeling extremely frugal, feel free to create your own cleaner. Generously apply the fluid to the posts, and clean vigorously with your wire brush.<\/li>\n<li>Rinse the cleaning fluid with a little water.<\/li>\n<li>Dry the posts with rags.<\/li>\n<li>Replace battery terminals.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">A dead battery can be one of the most frustrating car problems, because it\u2019s usually so simple to avoid the trouble. Especially if you\u2019ve had the same battery for a few years, pop your hood every few months and take a look at the battery to see if it needs a simple cleaning.<\/p>\n<h2 style=\"text-align: justify;\">Radiator Flush<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Your car\u2019s radiator and cooling system need\u00a0to be clean to work efficiently and effectively. With normal wear and tear, your car\u2019s radiator builds up deposits that can disrupt the cooling system. A radiator flush is a quick and inexpensive way to keep your system in shape.\u00a0Consult your owner\u2019s manual to find out if you need to flush the radiator yearly or every two years.<\/p>\n<ol style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<li>Make sure your car is completely cool before you begin.<\/li>\n<li>Check your owner\u2019s manual to find the radiator\u2019s drain plug. Put your used coolant receptacle in place, unscrew the drain plug, and let the old coolant\u00a0drain completely.<\/li>\n<li>Replace the drain plug and remove the radiator cap.<\/li>\n<li>Use the funnel to add the radiator flush cleaning solution and then fill the rest of the radiator with water.<\/li>\n<li>Replace the radiator cap.<\/li>\n<li>Start the car, and let it run until it gets to its normal operating temperature.<\/li>\n<li>Turn on your heater to its hottest position, and let the car run for 10 minutes.<\/li>\n<li>Turn the car off and wait for the engine to cool <em>completely<\/em>.<\/li>\n<li>Drain the contents of the radiator.<\/li>\n<li>Refill the radiator with fresh coolant.<\/li>\n<li>Be sure to dispose of the old coolant safely, by bringing it to an auto parts store, gas station, or mechanic. Old coolant is fatal, but its sweet taste can be enticing to pets.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Working with coolant is a step toward more advanced DIY auto projects. Temperature can be a dangerous issue when you\u2019re working on your car, so make sure you give your engine plenty of time to cool before you start and before you drain the radiator. Don\u2019t rush this job, and <em>always<\/em> err on the side of caution.<\/p>\n<h2 style=\"text-align: justify;\">Brake Pads<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">You\u2019ll need to replace most brake pads around every 20,000 miles, but as always, check your owner\u2019s manual for specifics about your model. If you consistently do a lot of \u201cstop-and-go\u201d driving, you\u2019ll need to replace them more frequently. Brake pads are DIY-eligible, but safety is your top priority. Be careful, get everything ready before you start, and if you\u2019re uncomfortable at all, pay a professional to do it for you.<\/p>\n<ol style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<li>Jack up your car and rest it securely on jack stands.<\/li>\n<li>Break the lugs on your tires before you do anything else.<\/li>\n<li>Remove the wheel.<\/li>\n<li>Remove the brake caliper so that the brake pads slide out through the top. The brake caliper should be\u00a0at the 12 o\u2019clock position, just above the lug bolts. On the back of the caliper you\u2019ll find a bolt on both sides. Remove the bolts and set them aside. Hold the caliper from the top and pull upwards. Give it a few taps if you need to, making sure not to disturb the brake line (a black hose). Don\u2019t let the caliper hang from the brake line; find somewhere to set it securely. With the caliper out of the way, the old brake pads should slide right out.<\/li>\n<li>Replace old pads with the new pads, securing them with the same retaining clips that held the old pads in place.\u00a0If you have an older car, you might need to utilize your hammer here a little bit. Proceed gently!<\/li>\n<li>Compress the brake piston. Get out your C-clamp and put the end with the screw on it against the piston with the other end on the back of the caliper assembly.<\/li>\n<li>Tighten the clamp until the piston has moved far enough to where you can place the caliper assembly over the new pads.<\/li>\n<li>Re-install the brake caliper (the opposite process of what you did when you removed it), and then simply put your wheel back on.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">With this project, you\u2019re stepping up to what I consider \u201cDIY 2.0.\u201d If you\u2019re still mastering how to change your oil, you might want to build your confidence level a little before taking on this project.<\/p>\n<h2 style=\"text-align: justify;\">Fuel Filter Replacement<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">For $20, a new fuel filter can protect your engine from very costly damages, so follow the rule of thumb and replace it annually. But keep in mind that like changing brake pads, this is an advanced DIY project.\u00a0Make sure you\u2019re not in over your head before starting this one. I did it once, and did it correctly, but I definitely paid attention to every detail during the process. Dealing with fuel and fuel filters can be dangerous work if you\u2019re not prepared. If you\u2019re not a DIY mechanic, let a pro do this annual job for you.<\/p>\n<ol style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<li>Most importantly, start by relieving fuel system pressure. If you don\u2019t, the results can be explosive, to say the least. Locate the fuel pump fuse on the fuse box. If you don\u2019t have a fuel pump fuse, find the relay that operates the fuel pump. Start your car, and with the engine running, pull the fuse or relay out. When the engine dies, you\u2019ll know that you pulled the right one.<\/li>\n<li>Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel filter. Find two open-end wrenches that are the correct size for your fuel filter fittings (usually you\u2019ll need two different sizes).<\/li>\n<li>When the wrenches are in place, put a rag over the fitting to protect yourself in case there is still some pressure in the lines.<\/li>\n<li>Hold the wrench that fits on the actual filter, and turn the other wrench counter-clockwise until that bolt comes out.<\/li>\n<li>Slide the fuel line off the bolt and set the bolt aside.<\/li>\n<li>Repeat the process for the other side of the fuel filter.<\/li>\n<li>Remove the old fuel filter. Most filters are held in place by a clamp that you can release by using a flathead screwdriver. Be careful here, as the old fuel filter could still have some gas in it!<\/li>\n<li>Change the fuel filter washers, which are located on the bolts that connect the fuel lines to the fuel filter. Make sure to match the new ones up correctly.<\/li>\n<li>Install the new fuel filter, which is the opposite of the process you performed to remove the old fuel filter.<\/li>\n<li>Return the fuel pump fuse or relay before you try to start the car.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">This project is another \u201cDIY 2.0\u201d task. Dealing with the fuel system is serious business, so if you\u2019re unfamiliar with any of these terms and don\u2019t know where to start, just visit your mechanic for this regular service.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Air Filter You need a new air filter for your car every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first. You can pay a mechanic and give up your car for a day, or you can replace your air filter at home in about ten minutes. 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